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Friday, 22 April 2011

Ranthambore fort & Ganesh Temple

10.00 AM
After our previous night decision to cancel our Trip to Jaipur, we lazy souls woke up late. Still tired and recovering from the roller coaster rides in Safari, today we planned a visit to Ranthambhore fort & if time permits Dastakar in Sherpur. Ticket Canceling & Room Re-booking took some time and staying at the Station Retiring Room had proved a Boon in more than one ways.

12.30 PM

It was hard to coax the mind, still reluctant to leave the AC room & go fight the scorching summer Rajasthan Heat. We did finally leave armed with our backpacks, hats, Cameras & Lots of Chilled Water from the Icebox to conquer the Ranthambhore Fort.


A quick Brunch in Chanakya Restaurant, & we reached the Share a Jeep Stand, where Jeeps ply from the Station to Fort as soon as they are full. 15 Rs. per seat is the charge but they stuff 15 people in this vehicle.  We were just 4 of us and hiring the full Jeep for 450.00 Rs return was not a convincing thought, & we confirmed the front seat 75.00 Rs. one way. I did not want Purvi & Hriday to miss on this experience travelling with locals and religious tourists, & I wanted to Stand on the Footboard & feel the Wind. Looking at the condition of the vehicles, some quick thoughts did pass my mind whether we will make it to the Top.

10 minutes & the vehicle started with a unanimous chant of "Ganapati Bappa Morya" by everyone. The Lord Ganesh Temple at the Fort is a highly popular Religious Temple, 2-3 lakh Devotees throng the temple each year during Ganesh Chaturthi.

Midway after entering the Sanctuary Main gate On a steep Slope while maneuvering, a big THUD and the AXEL Snapped as expected. Nevertheless the scenic beauty around with Birds Chirping & Monkeys Jumping on trees Overhead definitely needed a stopover. A quick Photo session was just finished in time,  till another Jeep came to drop us at the Fort Base.

2.00 PM

Once at the Fort Base we started feeling the heat & was still wondering whether we will make it to the top though only 600 steps. As we started climbing the the stairs, guides started chasing but I was in no mood to hire a guide and wanted to explore the places at our own. However on Purvi's insistence finally we agreed on a guide for Rs 200/-. He even offered to carry Hriday all the way to the top. I denied the favour as Hriday was in no mood to hop on someone who he doesn't know. My only idea to hire him was As Tourists support the local tourism industry.


First 50 steps and I was sweating from every pore, still wondering why do i have to see this ruin. My heart against the thought. The guide started with history of the fort and Ranthambhore sanctuary most of which i knew or was researched by me on the net. The guide knew i was the one who will pay and was paying particular attention whether i was listening. I sensed this and asked him to narrate everything to Purvi, as i was not very keen on listening, be rude and poke fun at his knowledge as a guide. I wanted to concentrate more on how i climb the fort with tonic water effects & the Scorching Heat, & Our Cameraman Sanjay was busy taking pictures.




I generally like friendly locals and do get to have an insight of their lifestyle routines and cultures, with just a small conversation. But at this pace i know we won't be back before 6.00 and i befriended the guide. Soon we reached the First Gate of the fort NAVLAKHA POL. There are 7 gates to the fort




 
The knowledge of the fort gained was immense thanks to the guide. He also showed us a Hidden temple of Shivji only known by he King Hammir. Inside Ranthambore fort there are three Hindu temples dedicated to Ganesh, Shiva and Ramlalaji constructed in 12th and 13th centuries from red Karauli stone. There is also a Jain temple of Lord Sumatinath (5th Jain Tirthankar) and Lord Sambhavanath (3rd Jain Tirthankar) within the premises.


 The ganesh Temple is the only temple with an idol of Lord Ganesh with three eyes*(Trinetra), embossed from one of the fort’s wall. His vehicle mushak (mouse) is also placed there. There are many white rats in the premises who prefer to be around the idol most of the time. The pujari also offered us one as a take away gift.

 
The temples and tanks add to the beauty of the fort. The seven gates and massive curtain walls, crowning a fall-topped hill presents a majestic view. 

The fort had many buildings inside of which only a few have survived the ravages of wars and time. Among the remaining ruins, the two pavilions, Badal Mahal and Hammirs court and parts of the royal palace give an idea of the old grandeur. For water supply there are two rain fed reservoirs in the fort.





 

Humans are descendents of Monkey Ancestors. And these Monkeys are in abundance on the Fort. Beware they may be dangerous if provoked.





5.30 PM

As the Journey through this amazing Fort started to end, all my previous apprehensions about not visiting the Fort were slaughtered. The whole experience was like running through history books live. We climbed down the fort and tipped our guide without whom we would have not known an inch of this fort.
 6.00 PM

Back to the base as we did not want to miss the only mode of Transport, the good old Jeep. Again we hired the front Row and this time the friendly driver did allow me to stand on the footboard of the geep for the whole ride. I needed this as this would be maybe by last breath of air in the Ranthambhore Forest, at least for next couple of years, as in the back of my mind had already started planning for maybe becoming a wildlife enthusiast for life and start exploring other sanctuaries of India.


7.00 PM

Reached the Station after the Geep ride and before going to the Hotel decided to have dinner at a previously decided and searched restaurant by me " ZAIKA - The Taste".
7.30 PM

The restaurant did have an elaborate menu from Chinese, North Indian, South Indian & Pav Bhaji. Though I did hope he doesn't ditch me on Jain Food. But to our expectations the food was great, though service being slow as a group of 15- 20 odd people, maybe the only locals along with other 2 or 3 families of Sawai Madhopur were out for a dinner. Enjoyed the IPL match on Television and had a sumptuous meal. I would have had dinner each night here if had found this place earlier.

9.00 PM

Reached Hotel and had to start with Packing as we hat to catch the 3.00 AM train.
11.00 PM

Sanjay and Hriday were in a crazy mood and were fighting with each other until maybe only one survives. Eventually they retired hurt and every one except me were "Good Night"

Some more fidgeting with the Camara Laptop organizing photos etc. did pass my time away but was not sleepy.

1.00 PM

Others were sleeping and I was strolling in the Lobby still not ready to sleep. Was also afraid what if the alarm doesn't go on and we miss our Train. The silent atmosphere, with only Station Announcements in the backdrop, the cool breeze, made me walk to the platform for a quick cutting chai. I had never done this before and wanted to experience a small station at night where trains pass every few hours and the whole platform lights up. Vendors Running Helter Skeltor, Passangers getting on and off the Train, Tc changing Coaches, Gaurds waving Flags, Train Honks and leaves. The Platform suddenly bears a deserted look, getting ready for another Train. With still nothing to do for the next 2 hours, decided to go back to the room and wait.
3.00 PM

Woke up everyone and started our walk to the Platform just a few meters away from the Hotel, this was best as we just had to hop on our train.

Still feeling fresh from the whole Trip, I was not at all sleepy and was waiting patiently on the Platform to board our Train to Vikramgarh Alot. Our next Destination, Shri Nageshwar Parshwanath.


 

Thursday, 21 April 2011

ranthambore tigers


4.30 AM
 
Our Previous 6 Park visits (including 1 in this Trip) had failed to provide us with any Tiger Sightings, not to mention each time we enter the park was with a stronger desire to see the stripped, feline, beast.Our previous visits in October I feel was not the right time as the climate was cold and it also rained a lot. This makes it very hard to spot the Great Bengal Tiger in thick Bushes,Dense forest & FOG. But Even in this Trip we were disappointed as we had already finished a SAFARI without sightings.

Even then I woke up and was ready to leave from our Hotel for the Forest Office to pay the Balance & confirm our reserved tickets for Canter. Me and Sanjay left with our Usual Return Auto rickshaw Driver to the office.Whispers of the waiting people mix with the barking of stray street dogs roaming nearby.We finished our Formalities returned to the Hotel. We had got Zone 2 this morning and were not as excited because Zone 3 and 4 are considered the Best because of the picturesque lakes and Ruins.

Vehicles enter into the park at fixed times during the morning and evening , they  have to follow a fixed route and there are 5 routes , the vehicles have to   leave the park by the end of the appointed time. Traffic into the park is highly regulated , at a given time not more than 5 jeeps can travel on a particular route and more than 16 vehicles are not allowed into the zone at the same time.


6.00 AM

Though half asleep Purvi & Hriday were ready with their Hats on, Backpacks on Shoulders with Camera,Binoculars,Water, Biscuits & Snacks to embark on One more fascinating, Enchanting, Thrilling Jungle Safari. Though we all felt that this again should not turn out to be tiring, maybe redundent & eventually Boring Safari without a sighting.  To be safe we carried lots of Water as it was Hot the previous evening even though it was cool this morning.

We all reached the Forest office at 6.20 AM as suggested by someone at the office for the morning Canter Safari Pickup. The Forest office is the Starting Place from where all Canter Drivers & Guide depart to collect their respective guests from various hotels dotted on the road towards the Main Ranthambore Park Gate which is 8 km away. But We were shocked to hear that Our Canter had already left as the Park Entry time is 6.00 AM. Our Canter had left half an hour ago.

We were deeply saddened. But the other local drivers and Guides came to our rescue. They started making frantic calls to the Driver & Guide of our Canter to trace his whereabouts. These 5 minutes only thing we were praying was that the Canter should have not entered the Main Gate as it would be impossible to join in then. Someone got connected to the Guide asked him to Stay Put on the main gate. One Driver agreed to drop us on the main gate, and off in a flash, he drove us in his Gypsy to the main gate in 15 minutes for a small TIP.

We thanked him in a hurry and hopped in Our Canter already full with some grunting and mumbling Wild Life Enthusiaists and Tourists still waiting at the gate for no fault of theirs.



7.00 AM


We adjusted ourselves in the remaining empty seats. A bit relaxed after our race against time to the Start Line. Hriday was still half asleep, Sanjay occupied the seat next to the Driver & I seated next to an older man who had just been to Bandhavgarh a Day before.
We finished fast with the entry formalities to the park and our Guide quickly started his routine explnations about the RAnthambore Sanctury Wildlife, Birds & Fauna.The Diesel Canter was Noisier than the Petrol.The path in the park is quiet rough and bumpy , a good driver and jeep can only manouvre these rocky terrains. The surroundings were beautiful we were in the midst of nature, in the natural habitat of wild animals. I was just thinking how lucky we were today not to miss the safari. We saw some exotic birds, deers Antelopes Peackock, & neelgais.



But we had already lost interest in these after so many Safaris. We were still waiting for the big cats. 
Within fifteen minutes my neighbour started to brag about his encounter with the Tiger in Bandhavgarh & showed my his snaps on camera. I was getting Jealous but that also made my desire and craving for its glimpse more stronger. Suddenly our Guide Spotted a Tiger sitting on a huge Rock some 50-60 meters away. Immediately everyone started to take photographs, though far it was still visible. I hoped to get a better view. I just got a glimpse which i knew would not satisfy me & also i could not snap as we were still moving.

We heard some noises of People just ahead the bend of our Road. Immediatly on instructions from the Guide the driver drove ahead where 1 more Canter and 2 Gypsies were following a Tiger on the road. Yes the full grown male Tiger in its all beauty was walking in the middle of the road. The Noisy engine was shut off. The excitement was uncontrollable and initially i could not take Proper snaps and was fumbling with the camera. I could see a broad smile on the awe struck face of Hriday. We all were happy and just couldnt belive our luck & the situation.There were 2 canters and 3 jeeps surrounding the tiger,  so many people but there was pin drop silence. Every body was busy recording, clicking away or simply gaping.


The height of the canter enabled us to see over the two jeeps in front of us. Some jeeps only had two or four people but this apparently had been due prior arrangements with particular travel companies. Sanjay had some clear shots from the First Seat, & i managed to grab a cool video after climing the safety railing on the canter, though afterwards felt foolish on my actions in the dangerous situation.

Our Driver overtook 2 geeps and Both Purvi and Hriday were busy following every action of Tiger as we drove near him. I was actually surprised that the noisy canters don't aggravate the Tigers. The tiger took a Right turn in the woods and I thought it will disapapear.


Immediately all the vehicles started to follow him on the road ahead which turned right to a water hole. The tiger remained in sight and was still slowly walking towards the waterhole.
He reached the banks quenched his thirst, checked the depth of the water with his front feet & slowly walked into the stream & submerged himself to chill.



We have had our day. We were now waiting for him to come out from the water.

8.30 AM

In the meantime some other Gypsies and canter had found the previous Tigress sitting on the rock, which was coming this way and we could hear their voices. The female tiger was the mating partner of the relaxing male. The female Tigress was T39 & the male tiger was T24. We hoped that the tigress to will join the male in the water hole, but she moved away on the other side. We could see her going deeper in the forest. The Gypsies then came near us and also informed about a Leopard sitting on a tree. We have had enough of clicking and shooting about the Tigers activities & wanted to grab a visual of the LEOPARD. Leopard sightings are rare as they shy away from humans. Whereas Tigers flaunt their Natural Lifestyle which we have already witnessed.


After some more time the Guide decided to move on as the Tiger was not willing to come out of the pool. We bid farewell to the LORD with a sense of satisfation and relief after our first wondefull sighting after trying for 6 attempts . We started to return to the entry gate on the road where there was  a Leopard Sighting. We could not find it but still saw a lot of wild life including A Giant Lizard, a Mongoose & an eagle & an Owl.



On the way out people from other zones who were unsuccessfull of a sighting were definately feeling Unlucky if not Jealous. But our happy faces must have made their desire for the BIG CAT in action stronger.

9.45 AM

Once out of the Park we realised we were hungry and started munching on the snacks on our way back to the forest office. The Guests one by one got down at their hotels & they did tip handsomely to the guide. We too tipped & thanked the guide for a wonderfull experience when he droped us at the Forest Office.


We walked back to our hotel from a shortcut still enjoying the experience. Hriday was atounded by the sighting and was ready for another one. We had to get ready for another safari in the next 3 hours.